theflyinglaxer
06-26-2007, 06:11 PM
In my short time here at TLF I have seen many very useful tips get lost in random threads. That is why I am making this tips megathread. I will try to keep it updated and organized.
Tips for stringing:
General Stringing:
- When stringing your sidewalls, it is important they are both symetrical. I found the best way to do this is do both sidewalls at a time. Do one sidewall hole, then repeat the same procedure for the opposite side. This way you are positive that both sides are identical and you didnt forget how you did the otherside. Do this the rest of the way down the head and you have perfectly symetrical sidewalls. (Dpolelax)
- when cutting strings, adn then burning them, intead, burn the string a centimeter from the edge and then cut them, make sure you reall hold them under the lighter for a second or two. when you cut it, it should come out with a nice hard thin tip that is really easy to string through the holes. (laxdevil666)
traditional pockets:
- I know alot of you like to experiment with the rockit pocket and i know alota people that have done the twists first. My suggestion is always do the track(center) first of the rock-it pocket then you vcan string the rest of the pocket around the ball like the RP is supposed to be...also this will cut down on adjustments on the twists ..which can be very long and hard (kermlax5)
- Before stringing your leathers rub them with neetsfoot oil. It helps break them in really well.I just put some on a rag in my hand and pulled the leathers thru a few times stretching the leathers and stuff. (mr. tibs)
- i dunno if this is a new thing but my friend just told me bout it...when slicing a hole in a leather just use a nail clipper makes a clean cut hole (joeyp2003)
- someone mentioned this before, but i haev a better way to cut the slits in the leathers, go to your local hardware store, ask if they have a pair of horizontal wire cutters, they cut those badboys really easily. no work at all. (laxdevil666)
- I personally, now, use the rougher side, but many manuals instruct you to do otherwise.
The rougher side is believed to give you better hold, while the smoother side gives you a smoother, cleaner release.
My first stringing, I used the rougher side, and my hold was amazing. The next year, I strung the softer side, without knowing. I suddenly "lost" my ability to hold on to the ball, but as soon as I got used to it, I loved the way my stick passed/threw. Now, I restrung my stick to the rougher side, but I may go back to the softer side. (faceitoff) (note: I think he's referring to the leathers, if it is otherwise, just tell me)
- take a pencil (preferably unsharpened) and wrap the leather around it. keep wrapping (TIGHTLY) until you have wrapped the whole leather around the pencil. there you are, stretched leathers :-) (LCNlaxman)
- Take the same pencil (or a different one, better unsharpened) and push it through the pre-cut holes of the leather. now it's easier to push the end of the leather through. (LCNlaxman)
shooting strings:
-adding shooters...okay when i add shooters i like to first put the whole ball and knife thing so the pocket is tight then i add the shooters acrosse i find it makes installing the shooters alot easier...note: this only works well with shooters going accross do install a U or V i dont use the knife and ball i just install them normally...hope this helps, least it does with me (joeyp2003)
Mesh Pockets:
- Stringing a no-whip pocket in hard mesh, towards the top put one tight nylon. Next a row or two of diamonds down put a straight across shooter, then one or two more down put a big ^ shaped shooter. This is almost certain a no-whip pocket, also make sure that the pocket is low.(lzlax09)
- like traditional, string your stick up with just sidewalls. then string on the mesh and sidewall again and then you get a bigger pocket (elementsk8r070)
-If you're having problems with shooting and passing with your soft mesh, I found a way to string the shooters that keeps ALL the hold but eliminates most of the whip. This shooter configuration gives me consistent 80+ mph shots, which is much faster than I've ever achieved.
String a tight straight shooter on the third row down, then another below it. Both of these need to be tight, the shooters aren't graduated like they would normally be. The part that really makes this work is the V shooter. I think the reason why the V works so well is that the tip acts as a release point, so it wont hook like some soft mesh pockets will. On the row below your second shooter in the middle of the row is where the tip of the V will be. Make it fairly tight, but so that it will conform with the pocket and not tighten it up. If my camera worked I would put up a picture, but I'll try to get some up. I'm sure a lot of you have figured this out, but I see a lot of new people who need a fix for their soft mesh problem.On a further note, make sure your sidewalls and bottom strings are completely tight so the mesh wont bag. Hope this helps some of you, this really is a great pocket for any position. I dont know about attack, but if it works for defense and midfield I'm assuming it will. Have fun. (lacrossestitute)
- Ok. I have found that the best bottom strings are made from shoe lace. WHy? Because shoe lace stretches slightly. Thus when catching a ball the pocket will expand slightly to ease the ball in and then act like a slingshot when throwing. its also great when power cradling b/c the pocket expands. (sharpshooter3)
- alright heres a way i started to stretch my mesh roll it up and twist it like your de-watering a wet rag,it stretches the diamonds out and often times you don't need to use conditioner or anything else... (poppingseed)
- if your stick has "lip". simply tighten each section of your top string and your in business. (Feel the Rain)
Tips for Dying:
1. A head left in navy blue dye for too long looks purple.
2. Black dye can turn purple; for better results, dye the head dark green or some other dark color before hand.
3. ya, i don't know if this is widely known, but to make a single color fade(dark to light) all you need to do boil the dyue first, and dip half of the head in over night, then re heat the dye not as hot though and do the same thing, it worked great for mw. (nylaxmaster)
4. Dyeing For dyeing all you really have to do when covering the whole head in dye, make sure the dye water is boiling to ensure good, pure, even distribution of the dye to the head. Also save your dye in water bottles or old milk jugs so that you can just reheat it add a little more dye and then your set.
5. when you get dyed sidewall strings from jimalax or somewhere, wash them under water to get out any excess dye. if you dont, when your head gets wet you will have little dyed marks on your head where the strings were. believe me i know. my evo pro has orange circles around the sidewall holes, it sucks (mdawg)
6. when you dye a head and put your boiling water in, dont do it on a counter top, the heat will crack it after a while. (sweet_ceX)
Tips for pinching:
1. i know when most peolpe pinch their sticks they use the boiling method or the heat method. those work well, but if you dont want to affect the strength of your head you can do this. take string and wrap it around the head a few times. then pull it really tight so the side walls are 1.5-2" away from each other. let the stick sit for a few days. then untie it and your stick will be more pinched then when you tie it up. its a good idea to do it really, really tight because when you untie it, it will expand alot. (mdawg)
2. for pinching instead of wraping yards and yards of string around your head, get a cross lace and tie a knot in one end. loop it through the hole on the opposite side of the head. Aplly pressure to the head to pinch it (i.e. stand on it). Pull string taut, make a knot, and slide it down and pull tight. And voila! you have a head ready to pinch with using only 1 foot of string!
3. When pinching do NOT use moccasin style shoe laces to wrap around the throat. Doing this causes the brownish yellow pigment in the laces to dye onto the head wherever it is toutching. I did this with my torque and now there is yellow lines on it which arent that noticible. But all in all just dont do it it is impossible to get it out I tried to use bleach, dye remover, and oxi clean and nothing worked so dont do it. (lzlax09)
4. And just some other tips for pinching boil the head for about 2-5 minutes without strings on the head then take the head out and tie it up with strings. Put it back in the boiling water for about 5-10 minutes and take it out put it in the fridge for a while, and after that just let it sit overnight in room temp, this method has always worked for me and there has never been a problem with "unpinching." (lzlax09)
5. Instead of using any type of string to pinch your head, or any heating method, use the plastic lock things (zipties). I dont know exactly what there called but there plastic and u stick on end into the other and pull, it works great and doenst mess up the scoop of the stick either or give it a chance of melting. (orange)
6. go to your local hardware store (if you have one close by, Home Depot. they rock.) and see if they have Quik-Clamps. they are small hand clamps that clamp the more you pull the handle thing. Take your head and put the clamp around it, but first put the clamp VERY loose. put a 6 1/2" - 7" pencil in the sidewall holes near the scoop (to keep it legal) and put a baseball in the throat. Tighten the clamp so the baseball won't come out. Take a hair dryer (*GASP* a guy touching a hair dryer?!??!?!!?11 Yes.) and set it to hot and run that over the sidewalls of the head for approx. 20 minutes total. Try equaling out the length each side is exposed to the heat otherwise you might get a lopsided head. (LCNlaxman)
7. insted of heating and boilling, just do the zip tie thing, and just put it in the dashboard of your car the sunlight and ish will do the same thing and you won't have to worry about screwing up your head over a fire or stove. (poppingseed)
8. The zip tie idea works great. But if you want perfect pinching Shape the head like you want with the zip ties and use a blowdryer to make it more pliable. Leave it for about an hour and walah! perfectly pinched head and best of all it doent take too long (whslax)
9. my fav way to pinch a stick is to just bake it. set the oven at 350 and leave it in for about 5 mins, and just mold it the way you want. Works well for me (main32event)
10. When i pinched my head, i just put a bungie around it and used a blow dryer. It was easy and took about 3 minutes to heat. Then i put it in the freezer. Then i went extreme to get the scoop larger but the throat more narrow. I put the bungie around the throat and the put the stick in the hallway to smash it down and apart. its hard to explain, i put the lip of the head against the wall and put the butt end of the shaft on the other wall and pushed down uptil i got the shape i wanted. I heated it and left it over night. Now its legal measurements. Please note that any alter of a head is illegal. (benz7583)
Tips for Endcaps:
1. You know how those nice rubber warrior butt caps eventually end up getting cut up by the shaft? The trick to stop that is to put a quarter in the butt cap before you put the shaft in. (senor_k)
2. Use a plastic water bottle cap, and tape around it, mine hasnt broken for a while now (kryptic)
Tips for Tape:
1. To get rid of that sticky tape feeling when you put a fresh roll on your stick, throw some baby powder on it. The baby powder clings to the tape and makes it smooth. (Dpolelax)
2. It has been mentioned many times before to cover the ends of your tape (after its wrapped and everything) with wax, and wax them down with the hot liquid wax you get from burning a candle, i found that this works very well, but what i do which think is even easier is just heat up a hot glue gun, put a little hot glue on the bottom of my tape and press it down, it stays pretty well and if it starts becoming undone just do it again (laxattack2)
Tips for Making Pockets:
1. If you ask anyone how to form a good pocket they will all tell you the ball and butterkinfe trick. Well I never really liked that because it was so hard to get the ball in the position you want it and you risk fraying your sidewalls a little with the edge of the knife. To fix this problem i use a screwdriver. It's narrower so it fits through the sidewall and the sidewall stings better and when you rotate the screwdriver you can actually change the postion of the ball. Some kids use a pencil or two, but i dont think that they are strong enough. (Dpolelax)
2. You know when you have a realy hard peice of mesh, and your to lazy to pound a pocket into it (god forbid)? This is what i do... Fill a small pan with hot water, and then add a capfull of liquid fabric softener. Stretch out your mesh and put it in the water. Let it sit for like 10 minutes. Now string it up, with the mesh still wet. Now your mesh smells good and you'll have a nice big pocket with no work at all. (Tbone)
3. i figured this out 5min ago looking at this fourum: You just get a pen/pencil and a roll of athletic tape. First put the pen in between the sidewalls and the mesh, then pt the tape under the pen and voila!! (laxmann1993)
4. I made my last pocket by putting the ball in and then resting a beer can on top as its pretty heavy and small enough to fit in the stick! Also, run warm water over the mesh first to loosen it up for stretching. (DUMLCmike)
5. Somtimes is you take mesh in the shower and string it on after it drys hard and lop sided. A way to eliminate that and keep the mesh is to Put the ball and butter knife in, then you run it under hott hott hott water until its all wet. Then you let it dry with the ball and knife in it and you have a perfect pocket. (rebellax10)
6. My way of expanding a pocket takes awhile to do but it is worth it. First take a shirt and soak it in water. then put it in the stick. after putting the shirt in the pocket pour hot water on it and let it sit for a half hour. Then leave the shirt in the pocket pour hot water on it and leave it there. Repeat this four more times and then just let it sit there for the rest of the day. After that take the shirt out and you will have a deeper pocket. (gigo567)
7. When doing the ball and butterknife trick, tape the edge of the butter knife so it doesnt cut and fray your sidewall strings. (Mr. Tibs)
8. instead of messing with boiling water and all that just put ur mesh in the washing machine with the rest or ur clothes be4 u string ur stick (libertyvillelax)
9. i use a paint can opener, the little hook on the end catches on the side wal to hold it in place. Also i tighten the side walls as much as possible then use my paintcan opener, leave that in over night then i adjust my side walls, this is so the mesh is actually broken in. (stickPhD)
That's the first page of tips. I'll do the rest later.
so, next time you post a tip in a thread, post it here as well.
PS: I took the liberty to fix a few glaring spelling/grammar mistakes
EDIT: okay, so now I kinda look like an idiot :nahya: Maybe I could organize that thread in this thread.
Tips for stringing:
General Stringing:
- When stringing your sidewalls, it is important they are both symetrical. I found the best way to do this is do both sidewalls at a time. Do one sidewall hole, then repeat the same procedure for the opposite side. This way you are positive that both sides are identical and you didnt forget how you did the otherside. Do this the rest of the way down the head and you have perfectly symetrical sidewalls. (Dpolelax)
- when cutting strings, adn then burning them, intead, burn the string a centimeter from the edge and then cut them, make sure you reall hold them under the lighter for a second or two. when you cut it, it should come out with a nice hard thin tip that is really easy to string through the holes. (laxdevil666)
traditional pockets:
- I know alot of you like to experiment with the rockit pocket and i know alota people that have done the twists first. My suggestion is always do the track(center) first of the rock-it pocket then you vcan string the rest of the pocket around the ball like the RP is supposed to be...also this will cut down on adjustments on the twists ..which can be very long and hard (kermlax5)
- Before stringing your leathers rub them with neetsfoot oil. It helps break them in really well.I just put some on a rag in my hand and pulled the leathers thru a few times stretching the leathers and stuff. (mr. tibs)
- i dunno if this is a new thing but my friend just told me bout it...when slicing a hole in a leather just use a nail clipper makes a clean cut hole (joeyp2003)
- someone mentioned this before, but i haev a better way to cut the slits in the leathers, go to your local hardware store, ask if they have a pair of horizontal wire cutters, they cut those badboys really easily. no work at all. (laxdevil666)
- I personally, now, use the rougher side, but many manuals instruct you to do otherwise.
The rougher side is believed to give you better hold, while the smoother side gives you a smoother, cleaner release.
My first stringing, I used the rougher side, and my hold was amazing. The next year, I strung the softer side, without knowing. I suddenly "lost" my ability to hold on to the ball, but as soon as I got used to it, I loved the way my stick passed/threw. Now, I restrung my stick to the rougher side, but I may go back to the softer side. (faceitoff) (note: I think he's referring to the leathers, if it is otherwise, just tell me)
- take a pencil (preferably unsharpened) and wrap the leather around it. keep wrapping (TIGHTLY) until you have wrapped the whole leather around the pencil. there you are, stretched leathers :-) (LCNlaxman)
- Take the same pencil (or a different one, better unsharpened) and push it through the pre-cut holes of the leather. now it's easier to push the end of the leather through. (LCNlaxman)
shooting strings:
-adding shooters...okay when i add shooters i like to first put the whole ball and knife thing so the pocket is tight then i add the shooters acrosse i find it makes installing the shooters alot easier...note: this only works well with shooters going accross do install a U or V i dont use the knife and ball i just install them normally...hope this helps, least it does with me (joeyp2003)
Mesh Pockets:
- Stringing a no-whip pocket in hard mesh, towards the top put one tight nylon. Next a row or two of diamonds down put a straight across shooter, then one or two more down put a big ^ shaped shooter. This is almost certain a no-whip pocket, also make sure that the pocket is low.(lzlax09)
- like traditional, string your stick up with just sidewalls. then string on the mesh and sidewall again and then you get a bigger pocket (elementsk8r070)
-If you're having problems with shooting and passing with your soft mesh, I found a way to string the shooters that keeps ALL the hold but eliminates most of the whip. This shooter configuration gives me consistent 80+ mph shots, which is much faster than I've ever achieved.
String a tight straight shooter on the third row down, then another below it. Both of these need to be tight, the shooters aren't graduated like they would normally be. The part that really makes this work is the V shooter. I think the reason why the V works so well is that the tip acts as a release point, so it wont hook like some soft mesh pockets will. On the row below your second shooter in the middle of the row is where the tip of the V will be. Make it fairly tight, but so that it will conform with the pocket and not tighten it up. If my camera worked I would put up a picture, but I'll try to get some up. I'm sure a lot of you have figured this out, but I see a lot of new people who need a fix for their soft mesh problem.On a further note, make sure your sidewalls and bottom strings are completely tight so the mesh wont bag. Hope this helps some of you, this really is a great pocket for any position. I dont know about attack, but if it works for defense and midfield I'm assuming it will. Have fun. (lacrossestitute)
- Ok. I have found that the best bottom strings are made from shoe lace. WHy? Because shoe lace stretches slightly. Thus when catching a ball the pocket will expand slightly to ease the ball in and then act like a slingshot when throwing. its also great when power cradling b/c the pocket expands. (sharpshooter3)
- alright heres a way i started to stretch my mesh roll it up and twist it like your de-watering a wet rag,it stretches the diamonds out and often times you don't need to use conditioner or anything else... (poppingseed)
- if your stick has "lip". simply tighten each section of your top string and your in business. (Feel the Rain)
Tips for Dying:
1. A head left in navy blue dye for too long looks purple.
2. Black dye can turn purple; for better results, dye the head dark green or some other dark color before hand.
3. ya, i don't know if this is widely known, but to make a single color fade(dark to light) all you need to do boil the dyue first, and dip half of the head in over night, then re heat the dye not as hot though and do the same thing, it worked great for mw. (nylaxmaster)
4. Dyeing For dyeing all you really have to do when covering the whole head in dye, make sure the dye water is boiling to ensure good, pure, even distribution of the dye to the head. Also save your dye in water bottles or old milk jugs so that you can just reheat it add a little more dye and then your set.
5. when you get dyed sidewall strings from jimalax or somewhere, wash them under water to get out any excess dye. if you dont, when your head gets wet you will have little dyed marks on your head where the strings were. believe me i know. my evo pro has orange circles around the sidewall holes, it sucks (mdawg)
6. when you dye a head and put your boiling water in, dont do it on a counter top, the heat will crack it after a while. (sweet_ceX)
Tips for pinching:
1. i know when most peolpe pinch their sticks they use the boiling method or the heat method. those work well, but if you dont want to affect the strength of your head you can do this. take string and wrap it around the head a few times. then pull it really tight so the side walls are 1.5-2" away from each other. let the stick sit for a few days. then untie it and your stick will be more pinched then when you tie it up. its a good idea to do it really, really tight because when you untie it, it will expand alot. (mdawg)
2. for pinching instead of wraping yards and yards of string around your head, get a cross lace and tie a knot in one end. loop it through the hole on the opposite side of the head. Aplly pressure to the head to pinch it (i.e. stand on it). Pull string taut, make a knot, and slide it down and pull tight. And voila! you have a head ready to pinch with using only 1 foot of string!
3. When pinching do NOT use moccasin style shoe laces to wrap around the throat. Doing this causes the brownish yellow pigment in the laces to dye onto the head wherever it is toutching. I did this with my torque and now there is yellow lines on it which arent that noticible. But all in all just dont do it it is impossible to get it out I tried to use bleach, dye remover, and oxi clean and nothing worked so dont do it. (lzlax09)
4. And just some other tips for pinching boil the head for about 2-5 minutes without strings on the head then take the head out and tie it up with strings. Put it back in the boiling water for about 5-10 minutes and take it out put it in the fridge for a while, and after that just let it sit overnight in room temp, this method has always worked for me and there has never been a problem with "unpinching." (lzlax09)
5. Instead of using any type of string to pinch your head, or any heating method, use the plastic lock things (zipties). I dont know exactly what there called but there plastic and u stick on end into the other and pull, it works great and doenst mess up the scoop of the stick either or give it a chance of melting. (orange)
6. go to your local hardware store (if you have one close by, Home Depot. they rock.) and see if they have Quik-Clamps. they are small hand clamps that clamp the more you pull the handle thing. Take your head and put the clamp around it, but first put the clamp VERY loose. put a 6 1/2" - 7" pencil in the sidewall holes near the scoop (to keep it legal) and put a baseball in the throat. Tighten the clamp so the baseball won't come out. Take a hair dryer (*GASP* a guy touching a hair dryer?!??!?!!?11 Yes.) and set it to hot and run that over the sidewalls of the head for approx. 20 minutes total. Try equaling out the length each side is exposed to the heat otherwise you might get a lopsided head. (LCNlaxman)
7. insted of heating and boilling, just do the zip tie thing, and just put it in the dashboard of your car the sunlight and ish will do the same thing and you won't have to worry about screwing up your head over a fire or stove. (poppingseed)
8. The zip tie idea works great. But if you want perfect pinching Shape the head like you want with the zip ties and use a blowdryer to make it more pliable. Leave it for about an hour and walah! perfectly pinched head and best of all it doent take too long (whslax)
9. my fav way to pinch a stick is to just bake it. set the oven at 350 and leave it in for about 5 mins, and just mold it the way you want. Works well for me (main32event)
10. When i pinched my head, i just put a bungie around it and used a blow dryer. It was easy and took about 3 minutes to heat. Then i put it in the freezer. Then i went extreme to get the scoop larger but the throat more narrow. I put the bungie around the throat and the put the stick in the hallway to smash it down and apart. its hard to explain, i put the lip of the head against the wall and put the butt end of the shaft on the other wall and pushed down uptil i got the shape i wanted. I heated it and left it over night. Now its legal measurements. Please note that any alter of a head is illegal. (benz7583)
Tips for Endcaps:
1. You know how those nice rubber warrior butt caps eventually end up getting cut up by the shaft? The trick to stop that is to put a quarter in the butt cap before you put the shaft in. (senor_k)
2. Use a plastic water bottle cap, and tape around it, mine hasnt broken for a while now (kryptic)
Tips for Tape:
1. To get rid of that sticky tape feeling when you put a fresh roll on your stick, throw some baby powder on it. The baby powder clings to the tape and makes it smooth. (Dpolelax)
2. It has been mentioned many times before to cover the ends of your tape (after its wrapped and everything) with wax, and wax them down with the hot liquid wax you get from burning a candle, i found that this works very well, but what i do which think is even easier is just heat up a hot glue gun, put a little hot glue on the bottom of my tape and press it down, it stays pretty well and if it starts becoming undone just do it again (laxattack2)
Tips for Making Pockets:
1. If you ask anyone how to form a good pocket they will all tell you the ball and butterkinfe trick. Well I never really liked that because it was so hard to get the ball in the position you want it and you risk fraying your sidewalls a little with the edge of the knife. To fix this problem i use a screwdriver. It's narrower so it fits through the sidewall and the sidewall stings better and when you rotate the screwdriver you can actually change the postion of the ball. Some kids use a pencil or two, but i dont think that they are strong enough. (Dpolelax)
2. You know when you have a realy hard peice of mesh, and your to lazy to pound a pocket into it (god forbid)? This is what i do... Fill a small pan with hot water, and then add a capfull of liquid fabric softener. Stretch out your mesh and put it in the water. Let it sit for like 10 minutes. Now string it up, with the mesh still wet. Now your mesh smells good and you'll have a nice big pocket with no work at all. (Tbone)
3. i figured this out 5min ago looking at this fourum: You just get a pen/pencil and a roll of athletic tape. First put the pen in between the sidewalls and the mesh, then pt the tape under the pen and voila!! (laxmann1993)
4. I made my last pocket by putting the ball in and then resting a beer can on top as its pretty heavy and small enough to fit in the stick! Also, run warm water over the mesh first to loosen it up for stretching. (DUMLCmike)
5. Somtimes is you take mesh in the shower and string it on after it drys hard and lop sided. A way to eliminate that and keep the mesh is to Put the ball and butter knife in, then you run it under hott hott hott water until its all wet. Then you let it dry with the ball and knife in it and you have a perfect pocket. (rebellax10)
6. My way of expanding a pocket takes awhile to do but it is worth it. First take a shirt and soak it in water. then put it in the stick. after putting the shirt in the pocket pour hot water on it and let it sit for a half hour. Then leave the shirt in the pocket pour hot water on it and leave it there. Repeat this four more times and then just let it sit there for the rest of the day. After that take the shirt out and you will have a deeper pocket. (gigo567)
7. When doing the ball and butterknife trick, tape the edge of the butter knife so it doesnt cut and fray your sidewall strings. (Mr. Tibs)
8. instead of messing with boiling water and all that just put ur mesh in the washing machine with the rest or ur clothes be4 u string ur stick (libertyvillelax)
9. i use a paint can opener, the little hook on the end catches on the side wal to hold it in place. Also i tighten the side walls as much as possible then use my paintcan opener, leave that in over night then i adjust my side walls, this is so the mesh is actually broken in. (stickPhD)
That's the first page of tips. I'll do the rest later.
so, next time you post a tip in a thread, post it here as well.
PS: I took the liberty to fix a few glaring spelling/grammar mistakes
EDIT: okay, so now I kinda look like an idiot :nahya: Maybe I could organize that thread in this thread.